All of the Lights All of the Lights

 Sep 8, 2025

After another early morning, we set out in search of a bakery breakfast. Unfortunately, we were a little too early. The ovens weren't fired up yet, so we opted for some baked goods from the day before. They were still tasty, but it wasn't quite the bakery experience we'd envisioned when we set out.

Next stop: Starbucks. They were everywhere and usually the only shops we could find open at such an early hour.

I ordered a London Fog Latte, and I still think about it. Why do they taste better on vacation?

With caffeine in hand, we made our way to Kyoto Station and boarded the shinkansen. Just fifteen minutes later, we arrived in Osaka, which is about 35 miles from Kyoto. I don't think I'll ever get over how efficient Japan's trains are. We spent more time figuring out how to get to the platform in the station than we did riding the train.

We walked from the shinkansen to our hotel. They offered us immediate check-in if we became members, and since membership was free, that was the easiest decision we'd made all day.

After dropping our bags in our room- IT WAS HUGE!- our first stop was Kuromon Ichiba Market, often called "Osaka's Kitchen." Stretching for nearly 2,000 feet and home to more than 150 vendors, it's famous for incredibly fresh seafood, produce, and some of the best street food in the city. We quickly learned why. This was hands-down one of my favorite markets in Japan.

We wandered from stall to stall sampling everything that caught our eye. We tried takoyaki- crispy balls of octopus served piping hot that were absolutely delicious, and patiently waited for over 45 minutes for okonomiyaki, Osaka's famous savory pancake layered with cabbage, batter, and toppings. We also grabbed a skewer of candied fruit before wandering through the market's grocery store, where the everyday produce looked AMAZING.

One unexpected purchase? A suitcase. Since Evan was determined to leave Japan with a knife (or two or three), we figured there was a decent chance we'd be checking a bag on the flight home. Best to be prepared.

Back at the hotel, we packed up our larger luggage because we had decided to try one of Japan's most beloved conveniences: takkyubin, the country's luggage forwarding service. Rather than bringing our suitcases from Osaka to Tokyo, we'd simply send them ahead and travel light for the next few days. Everyone we'd talked to raved about it. Stay tuned.

That evening we headed to a neighborhood sushi restaurant called Wasabi and grabbed seats at the counter so we could watch the chefs work. In Japan, sushi chefs often season each piece exactly as they intend it to be eaten, including the wasabi tucked neatly between the fish and the rice. However, I had specifically asked for no wasabi.

After two surprisingly fiery bites, the sweet Korean man sitting next to me noticed I was struggling. He quietly ordered me a hot tea, (how sweet!). The sushi chef got the message and every piece he prepared for me after that was wasabi-free. Thank goodness!

From there we wandered into Dotonbori, Osaka's neon studded entertainment district. Imagine if Las Vegas and Times Square had a Japanese cousin. Giant moving crabs climbed restaurant walls. A massive blowfish hung above an entryway. Bright signs competed for our attention in every direction. And there were people EVERYWHERE. This was also the first city in Japan that wasn't pristinely clean. There was garbage up and down the street which was almost more shocking than the neon lights.

We strayed from the beaten path and made our way to a hidden speakeasy tucked inside an otherwise ordinary building. To enter, we had to duck through a super tiny door before carefully shuffling along a narrow ledge that hugged the windows until we reached the bar. It felt like we had discovered a secret clubhouse.

The cocktails were every bit as creative as the entrance. Smoke drifted across the bar, chocolate syrup decorated the glasses, and one drink even featured tequila from 1942. It was one of those places where ordering was almost as entertaining as drinking.

Later, we wandered down Midosuji Avenue, Osaka's elegant shopping boulevard. Wide sidewalks, designer storefronts, and glowing lights made it feel a bit like Chicago's Magnificent Mile, if the Mag Mile had far more vending machines and significantly better public transportation. 😆

By this point we'd passed dozens of arcades throughout Japan, so we finally gave in and played the claw game. Spoiler alert: We lost.

Determined to end the night on a sweeter note, we tracked down my favorite Japanese snack: the famous 10-yen coin cake. MMMM. Just as delicious as the first time. Meanwhile, Evan had spotted a deal for 30 gyoza for 1,000 yen. Instead of buying them, he decided we'd keep looking. Rookie mistake.

As we wandered through Osaka's nightlife, a bartender standing outside one of the bars invited us in. Since Osaka seemed determined to convince us to stay out late, we accepted. This was the Asian Las Vegas after all. We found ourselves sharing a barrel table with two young Americans stationed in South Korea who were spending their leave exploring Japan. Between drinks, table games, and swapping travel stories, it ended up being our first late night in Japan. Only took us 3 cities and 10 days. 😆