Today we were up at 6 with the chickens and roosters. We had a quick shower (5 minutes of hot water split between two!) And then went for a breakfast of fruit, eggs, pancakes, toast, beans, veggies, fruit and juices, teas, hot chocolates and coffees. A young couple from Japan joined us on our way out of camp because their driver had gotten stuck on his way in. He was currently working to pull his vehicle out of the mud (we know that feeling oh so well) We made it out of the camp and into the Masai National Park however the dirt paths were basically mud baths because of the consistent rain. David explained that these rains reminded him of the ones in April and October. During those two months safaris aren't scheduled because it's too wet and muddy. December is supposed to be the dry, hot time of the year. Go figure. Multiple jeeps were stuck in the park, including ours, and it was a big pileup.
We ended up having to turn around because the roads were inaccessible, because of the vastness of the park however, all was not lost. We still saw TONS of animals. 18 to be exact. I COULD NOT BELIEVE how close the animals got to us and how close we were able to get to them.
Initially, Mark and I would spot an animal, like giraffes or elephants in the distance and we'd ask David to stop so we could use our binocs. He was patient with us, because what we didn't realize was that while seeing them that far away was cool, it wasn't nearly as cool as it was going to be when we saw them up close (and believe me, we did see them up close!)
First, a herd of gazelle (topi) ran across the road right in front of our jeep.

Later, a momma, aged 19, and her two baby elephants, 6 and 2, crossed the road right in front of us. David explained that female elephants mature around age 11, and then start having babies around 14. Females in the wild live have a lifespan of 60 years. Males impregnate the females, but then do not stay with their family.

Giraffes were munching on trees right next to our windows, towering over us, and right across the way, laying in the grass was a lioness. She was staring right at us while lazily opening and closing her eyes. (I don't think I ever closed my eyes, not even once, the whole time we were there)

Similarly, we found a hyena sleeping in the grass, just feet from the lion.
Finding the crocs and hippos were the most exciting because instead of staying inside the jeep we were allowed to get out and hike with Sheila, a guide within the park. Sheila was no ordinary park ranger however, because she was carrying a rifle. She explained that it was for protection because hippos are the most dangerous animal to humans. I obviously then asked if she'd ever had to shoot one, with which she responded "yes". During her two years working in the park she'd shot one buffalo and one hippo, both because they were running at her. AHHHHH! Well... she survived both so at least we know she's a good shot. We found two GIGANTIC crocs first, lazing in the sun on the bank of the water. We then had to walk along the river to find the hippos. Usually, there are seven or eight hippo families spanning the banks, however because of the rains the water level was incredibly high and the hippos were hard to find. We eventually found a family of three along the farthest bank. THEY WERE HUGE (and I couldn't even see their whole bodies!) Sheila explained that hippos are vegetarians who spend all day in the water and then come on land at night to graze. Hippos can spend 5 minutes underwater before they need to come up for air and can run 40mph. To top it all off, hippos are vegetarians, so when they kill other animals (or humans) they leave them for dead to be scavenged by other meat eating predators. Hippos mark their territory with huge mounds of poop, which we found on land near the water. Sheila explained that's how to know where the hippos enter and exit the water. There were signs saying "stop. do not pass" and skulls of hippos and crocs, yet tons of tourists were hanging out on the other side of the rocks. Shout-out to David for and setting us up with Sheila who would've surely kept us safe!! She was 3USD well spent.
After enjoying boxed lunches and some sunshine (finally!)
we found the animal we had worked hardest for. David would chat with the other drivers almost every time he passed one, usually asking about road conditions or animal spottings. He got a tip that there were cheetahs in the bush, so we circled round multiple times. We staked out with the binocs and looked every which way but couldn't find them. We then saw a HUGE herd of gazelle so we changed our location. Surely the cheetahs would want to be near their next meal. We watched and watched and watched and finally we surrendered. I had to go to the loo so we drove down the path to turn around. On our way back there they were, in plain sight in the grass: two cheetahs! Were they going to pounce? No. David explained they usually travel in hunting packs of five but wouldn't eat until much later in the evening. He also explained why it looked as though the gazelle were standing on top of one another. When they eat they create a hunting mound so that one or two gazelles keep watch while the rest graze and then they switch. Amazing.
Using the toilet in the middle of the savannah was a bit unnerving but David's been driving for 26 years so he promised to find me a safe spot ("away from animals that may eat me", I kept stressing to him!) I'm behind the bush, trying very hard not be in the bush, or around the bush or touched by the bush and all of a sudden David's yelling in Swahili. Gahhh. Quick. Finish. Run to the jeep. David's laughing his pants off. His driver friends drove by thinking he was stuck so offered to help. When he said no they thought he'd seen an animal so they tried to bring their cars over. He then had to explain the real reason for being in the bush. Bahahhaa. I wasn't exactly the animal their passengers would be expecting so they drove off- thank god! On our way out of the park we saw tons of pumbas but they were incredibly camera shy and ran from the jeep every time it came near. They were so cute though! Same with the group of mongoose--- such tiny little creatures that started to run across the road but then backtracked just as quickly into the grass. We wouldn't have known what to do without a little afternoon rain and sure enough the African Plains did not disappoint. Right as we were pulling up to our campsite, around 615, the rain started. We quickly shed our mud caked safari clothes and headed to the main tent for local Kenyan beers! Cheers to a great first day on safari 🍻
...and WOW
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