We were up at 9 so we could leave for a walking tour of the city by 10. The room was still freezing (and the shower was still moldy) so no showers for us. Breakfast was included at our accomodation and was absolutely lovely- hardboiled eggs, tomatoes and cucumbers, tangerines, bread, cheese and marmalade.
17 of us left the hostel and embarked on a really informative walking tour throughout the Old Medina in the city of Fes. The city is made up of 9500 alleyways (big, small, covered, winding and everything in between).
We first climbed up, up and up to take in a beautifully panoramic view of the city.
Our first stop was the largest and oldest mosque. We weren't allowed to go in because when Fes was occupied by the French (many, many years ago), a law was made stating that those who were not of the faith must remain outside places of worship. This was necessary because frenchmen, especially police, were interfering with the religion of Islam. Because Fes is comprised of alleyways, the walls leading up to the mosques can be covered in wood, as opposed to the usual clay, so that people who are blind will be able to find their way to Allah.
Fes used to be the capital city but has since been changed. Everything within the walls of Fes is protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. We learned many different things as we walked, such as: the legend of the prophet Fatima who is said to be stretching her hand over the door to protect those who enter; or the reason that there are two knockers on the door, (one for family and one for strangers) that each make different sounds, so that the women in the home will know whether or not they need to cover their head before answering the door.
We also saw many different things as we walked, such as: the famous tanneries where leather is made. The smell from the tannery is so potent and strong that before entering visitors are given a sprig of mint to carry with them.
National Geographic named leather making in the tanneries one of the hardest jobs in the world and "therefore it is only done by men". (Although I do not agree with the sentiment that only men can do this difficult work, I do understand that this is the mentality of the people living and working in Fes.) Agree to disagree my friends, agree to disagree.
We visited an apothecary who used family recipes to make argan oils, lip balms, perfumes and more.
We had lunch at a tiny stall that served soup for 5 durham (fifty cents). First, our tour guide advised us to try it plain. Then, he told us that the locals all add a scoop of salted butter to the top and mix it in as it melts. It tasted absolutely delicious in this way! We were also given bread which is baked fresh in wood ovens. Many times, the women knead the bread at home and then come to the center to bake it.
After our scrumptious lunch we headed to a loom where they made silk and cashmere scarves from aloe vera. Here men only make 4-6 loom scarves but women can make many, many more. (That's what I'm talking about ladies!)
One of the things that resonated with me so much while we were walking happened when our tour guide stopped us near the river. One of the people from my hostel made a comment that the river was "so dirty" and had "so much trash in it". My tour guide informed him that the river used to be much, much worse and that now it was relatively clean. He explained that he gives walking tours because he loves his city and he wants visitors to learn as much as they can about this wonderful place. What he didn't realize, when he started giving the tours, was that he would also learn from the visitors. About five years ago our guide was giving a tour and while walking threw a food wrapper on the street. One of the tourists inquired as to why he would do such a thing, and the two got into a discussion about littering. Our guide explained that the people of Fes were raised to throw their trash in the river- they knew no other ways. Our guide had never heard of littering, or the fact that it was illegal and could incur fines in other countries. He was truly humbled, as was the tourist. Our guide told us that from that day forward he started educating children, and anyone who would listen really, as to why throwing garbage in the water wasn't the right thing to do. He asked us to imagine 5 years from now, when that many more people have had the chance to be educated, how clean the rivers will be. It made me realize that being judgmental, or bothered, by things that I see while I'm traveling is ignorant. Just because I know something to be "wrong" or "environmentally neglectful" doesn't mean that others do. I grew up in a place where there are garbage cans in every home, regular garbage pick ups on the curbs and trash cans in all of the public places. It's stupid to litter in a place like that because it's not necessary. But in places that don't have garbage cans in every home or regular garbage pick ups, not to mention any sign of public trash cans, can you blame people for throwing their garbage in the street? It's not calculated neglect, but rather an oversight.
After thanking our guide for showing us his beautiful city over the span of the day we headed back to our hostel to enjoy sun sunshine on the rooftop deck. It was a gorgeous afternoon for tangerines and chapter books. While on the roof we chatted with some of the other hostel guests and decided to share a taxi out of town to purchase alcohol for the evening. The taxi wouldn't take 5 of us, so we had to leave one of the guys behind. The traffic getting to the mall was a bit hectic, but nothing crazy. At the mall we wandered all over inside of the supermarket looking for alcohol. After asking around we were directed outside of the supermarket and into "the cave", which was a separate entrance to the alcohol den.
Mark and I got two bottles of wine to share. Leaving the mall was absolutely mental. The traffic was insane. It took us over an hour to get home and the distance we traveled was only a few miles. When we returned to the hostel we had a huge, traditional moroccan dinner with some of the most amazing, flavorful food I've ever tasted. Eating with everyone in the hostel was a really fun experience.
After dinner Mark wasn't feeling too well, so he laid down for a rest. I conspicuously drank my wine from a teacup (alcohol isn't allowed but the hostel mom hinted that she may look the other way since tonight is NYE) while chatting with some girls from Spain. At 10:30 a moroccan band showed up to play.
The music was fun and lively and it got all of us up and dancing, even Mark. The hostel workers, along with their children, were invited to stay for the evening and celebrate with us. The mix of all of us, dancing, singing and clapping together was truly remarkable. It is a New Year's Eve I will never forget!
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