Thursday, April 16, 2026

Digital Art, Real Life Panic & The. Best. Noodles.

 Sep 1, 2025

We started the day with breakfast in our room (instead of running to Don Quijote or 7/11), which was really nice. It only took us 3 days to learn. 

Then we set off for teamLab Planets Tokyo… which, geographically speaking, might as well have been on another planet. It took A LOT of train transfers to get there. 

teamLab Planets is this fully immersive digital art museum where you don’t just look at exhibits—you walk through them, interact with them, and occasionally question your own balance and sense of reality. It’s designed to engage all your senses, which it definitely did.

There were four main sections: water, forest, garden, and outdoor installations.

The water exhibit required us to take off our shoes and wade through water as digital koi fish swam around our legs and transformed into flowers when we touched them. 

We wandered through mirrored rooms filled with endless lights, a space with massive floating balls that shifted colors, and one particularly aggressive room that made it feel like the entire world was spinning. I laid on the floor with my eyes closed for that one. 

There were also these hanging swing ropes we had to climb through to get from one side to the other—definitely the least graceful of all the exhibits.

At the coloring station Evan designed a bird that got scanned and projected onto the wall. As it flew around I noticed that he wrote the words, "marry me" on it. It was our little secret and I loved it so much.











After we finished we headed to an indoor food hall for lunch where we sat at a sushi counter. I tried sea urchin (uni) for the first time and really enjoyed it.

We followed that with a walk through an indoor fish market, which was mostly closed (rookie mistake: apparently you have to go early in the morning), but we did manage to find coffee and tea, so not a total loss. Plus: more AC.

Then it was time for our afternoon activity: go-karting through Shibuya Crossing—aka the busiest intersection in the world.

Yes, real go-karts. Yes, in actual Tokyo traffic. Yes, it was as chaotic as it sounds.

It was supposed to be a character-themed ride, but it was so hot that Evan and I opted out of wearing the costumes (after briefly putting them on for a photo and immediately regretting it. They were sweaty AND smelly).

There were a bunch of us in one long line of karts, led by a single guide who insisted he could manage the whole group. Foreshadowing-- he could not.

Before we started, he warned us:

  • Do not run red lights (the police will pull you over)
  • If you get separated, the group will pull over and wait

So naturally, five minutes in, I ran a red light.

Not because I wanted to but because I was terrified of getting separated.

Evan, who was behind me, did stop at the light like a law-abiding citizen.

I looked ahead. The group kept driving. And driving. And driving.

I started yelling. Full panic mode. I pulled up next to the guy in front of me and yelled that Evan was missing, and then he started yelling, and slowly—very slowly—the message made its way up to our guide.

He finally pulled the group over.

But Evan didn’t show up.

At this point, I was convinced I’d lost him in Tokyo traffic forever.

The guide turned around to go find him and right after he left, Evan pulled up.

I have never felt more relieved.

Then we just sat there. Waiting. For the guide. Who had gone looking for Evan. Who was now already back.

Eventually the guide returned, we got moving again, and Evan very calmly informed me that I was significantly more shaken than he was.

To add to my distress, Evan AND I got separated two more times.

Luckily, those reunions were quicker, but at that point I was white-knuckling the steering wheel like there was no tomorrow. When we finally stopped (for good!), I realized I had been pressing my leg so hard against the side of the kart that I had a bruise forming.

Needless to say, I was thrilled to be back on my own two feet.








We WALKED (necessary!) to Udon Shin for dinner, and this place absolutely delivered. It’s a tiny spot known for handmade udon noodles, and you can literally watch the chef pulling and preparing them right in front of you at the counter.

We waited in line outside, ordered ahead, and once we got inside the food came out quickly. We both got cold udon dishes (perfect for the heat), and they were hands-down some of the best noodles we had the entire trip!






After dinner, we headed to Bar B&F, where the bartenders create custom cocktails based on your preferred spirit and “vibe.” You basically describe what you’re in the mood for—light, citrusy, spicy, whatever—and they take it from there.

I ended up with a Japanese basil margarita, and Evan got a gin fizz made with grape gin from Bolivia. Both were very tasty!

Our bartender had just been in New Orleans for a spirits conference, so we chatted with him for a while about the differences between the states and Japan.

On the way home, we made a stop at 7/11 to grab breakfast for the next morning (because we’ve learned), and then called it a night.

All in all: a day of immersive art, controlled chaos coupled with near-separation anxiety, and truly elite noodles.



Wednesday, April 8, 2026

Asakusa, Sumo and the Art of Eating Alone

 August 31, 2025

We kicked off Day 2 at the luxurious hour of 5:30am, which, compared to the day before, felt like sleeping in.

First order of business: a redemption run back to Don Quijote for a fan. This time was a quick in and out. Much more efficient than last time. 

Next stop: Lawson, which is essentially 7/11. Evan picked up a breakfast sampler of sausage, rice and egg that I was sure was going to make him sick. I, in contrast, chose safety in the form of a yogurt.

We hung out at the hotel until about 9:15 so Evan could charge his new prized possession (the fan), and then we were off to our walking tour in Asakusa.

We looked at (and learned) A LOT on the tour. 











One of the first things we did was a traditional fortune ritual at Sensō-ji Temple. You drop money into a box, shake a metal container full of sticks like you're playing a very spiritual version of Yahtzee, and then pull one out. The number on your stick corresponds to a drawer, which holds your fortune.

Mine? VERY GOOD.
Evan’s? VERY BAD.

Luckily, there’s a system for that. If you get a bad fortune, you tie it onto a designated rack so the monks can spiritually neutralize it (aka burn it later so it doesn’t come true). Evan promptly secured his fate to the rack, while I held onto mine.



After lots of walking we headed to the ramen spot our guide recommended-Ichiran- with another girl from our tour. We waited about 30 minutes outside, and spoiler alert it was definitely worth it. 

The experience itself was very unique. You order from a vending machine that spits out a ticket, then get seated in individual cubbies so you can focus solely on your ramen and whatever thoughts are swirling in your head. It’s completely silent because everyone is eating alone, side-by-side, like a socially acceptable introvert’s dream.

Inside the cubby, there are little wooden tags you place on the counter to communicate with the staff (no talking required), and a bamboo shade that lifts when your food arrives, like a tiny noodle reveal. It was one of the most unique dining experiences I’ve ever had, and honestly? Kind of peaceful.








After lunch Evan treated himself to a GLITTERY matcha green tea ice cream. He didn't love the taste, but I sure did love the glitter. 


Next up: a sumo wrestling demo and FAQ session which happened to be the unexpected highlight of the day.

Sumo, for context, is Japan’s national sport and has been around for over 1,500 years. It’s deeply tied to Shinto traditions, which is why you’ll see rituals like salt-throwing to purify the ring. Wrestlers (called rikishi) live together in training stables, where they follow intense daily routines that include early morning practices and eating massive quantities of chankonabe (a protein-heavy stew designed to help them gain weight). They also drink beer to add calories. They follow their boozy lunch with a nap. Evan was up for trying this side of Sumo. 

The wrestlers walked us through their lifestyle, diet, and training and then demonstrated different moves in the ring. The real entertainment began when they invited audience members to try their luck.

Children went. Adult men went. 

No one won. (obviously!)

We wrapped it up with photos with the wrestlers which was pretty cool and pretty stinky.








After that, we headed to Tokyo Tower, (quite a long, steep walk up) which… didn’t quite live up to expectations. We couldn’t access the top observation deck, and the middle level was dominated by an all-you-can-eat BBQ that we weren't feeling, so instead, we pivoted to an açaí bowl in the food court, which felt like a strange but necessary reset.



We took the train back to our neighborhood and found an izakaya for dinner which happened to have standing room only. Surely if all these people were paying to stand and eat it had to be good. Spoiler alert: it was. 

We ended up chatting with another American who was living in Japan as an expat, which turned into one of those random travel moments where you’re like, “How did we end up here, discussing life over beers while standing in a packed bar in Tokyo?”



We followed that with a stop at Bar and Junk Mikaku, an underground “5am bar” which sounds like chaos but... never fear... we were home by 9:30pm. #jetlag. Again.

They had a whiskey gacha (a mystery alcohol dispenser), which Evan tried. I opted for a tequila version, which… was not so desirable. #WhenInTokyo




What a great, full way, to spend another day in Tokyo.