Wednesday, November 27, 2019

Happy Halloween

Thurs 31 Oct thru Sun 3 Nov

On Thursday at school we organized a door decorating contest, Halloween game stations, a costume parade, treats and a movie for all of the primary students.




Thursday night I had the girls I teach with over for appetizers, drinks and games (we needed a little fun too!) However, when I got home, my apartment had no electricity, so the girls and I were eating apps by candlelight-- oh so appropo for the holiday. Friday evening a group of us went for drinks at a former co-workers' bar. Unfortunately, we had missed the memo and she wasn't working that evening... oops.
Saturday was our big Halloween party at Tony's. We decorated using the art work from our doors at school (reduce, reuse, recycle!) and charged a fee to cover the cost of food, drinks and music. The whole place was filled with expats which made it super fun! We even got to catch up with our friend Jen who's living in Sarande, but made it into Tirana for the weekend. After Tony's we headed to Charl's, a local spot with live music and dancing. We may have been the only people dressed up in all of Tirana, but we definitely didn't care.






 The weather on Sunday was lovely, so Mark and I had a day out.


 We walked from our apartment through the Great Park, where there is a new memorial honoring the Albanian people who aided jewish refugees during World War II.



As we walked down the boulevard, we noticed that overhead there were red and black banners honoring Albania's "heroes of the people". Albania gained their independence in November, and these banners are just one example of the many ways they are remembering and celebrating the heroes who made it happen.


 Our final destination was Toptani (or Tirana) Castle,  which is an incredibly old castle that is in ruins, except for some fragments of the outer wall that are still standing. The castle was taken over by the Toptani family, however this created a feud with another powerful family in Albania. The castle underwent a siege and ultimately the Toptani's were victorious, however, this did not last long. The castle came under attack from the Ottoman empire and was mostly destroyed, except for the fragmented wall that has been preserved today.



 Beyond the walls of the castle are small cafes, mom and pop shops and an art gallery. Mark and I wandered around enjoying the art and Albanian souvenirs until we became hungry enough to stop by Tartuf, an amazingly delicious cafe that is all about truffles (the mushroom, not the chocolate). I had a brand new menu item, the truffle eggs benedict and it was delectable. Mark had truffle risotto and to share we had truffle potatoes. We will definitely be heading back there. We very much enjoyed our day of exploration in Tirana.





Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Burritos, Baby Bears and Blood Marys

25-27 October 2019

We were supposed to travel last weekend, but Mark ended up with food poisoning, and we were supposed to travel the weekend prior to that but our oktoberfest flights were cancelled ,so we were really looking forward to a weekend away from Tirana. Our solution: pack up the car and head to Kosovo. Egzon, Mark and I left on Friday after school. We only got a little lost on the way, and ended up making it to Prishtina around 9:30pm. Callie, Andrew, Egzon, Vlera, Mark and I, all went out for Mexican food at a trendy new place. Then we tried to go out for beers, but since most places close around midnight, we just ended up heading back to Callie and Andrew's for some drinks. The four of us played dominoes and caught up on life. On Saturday we went to a bear sanctuary about a 20 minute drive outside of Prishtina. Until recently, it was legal in Kosovo to keep bears in cages outside of restaurants to attract more customers. Now that this practice has been outlawed, the bears need a place to go. This is why the bear sanctuary exists. There are currently 19 bears at the sanctuary, all with their own sad stories of captivity. The thing that struck me about the sanctuary was the size. It stretches across rolling hills and forest. It takes about 2 hours to walk from end to end. The bears are not kept in small areas like at some zoos, but instead are given vast expanses of land to wander and swim in. The difference is also in the caging. A wire fence, much like you'd see between the yards of two neighboring homes, is what separates onlookers from bears. It's electric, but...  with power outages as common as sliced bread in the balkans, the question has to be asked, do these fences have their own generators? I sure hope so! Not only were we able to get up close and personal with bears who were pacing, sitting up and swimming, we also got to watch a feeding. A truck drove by with huge pales of tomatoes and apples. The truck stopped outside of each complex and two men heaved up the big pales and threw the contents into the enclosures. Watching the bears eat was a brand new experience (and a loud one at that!) but was so wonderful because it showed the transformation these bears have had-- in the restaurants stale bread crusts and old beers were thrown at them in jest, but now, fresh fruits and veggies are thrown to them to promote their health and well being.









After our walk through the sanctuary we sat on the terrace overlooking the mountains dotted with fall colored leaves and enjoyed a late lunch.


 Our next stop was a Serbian monastery built in 1321. The outdoor stone work was beautiful, but the real beauty was tucked away inside, covering the chapel walls. The dated paintings from floor to ceiling were beyond what photos could capture and words could describe. Even though it's a quick visit, it's definitely worth it. Saturday evening Egzon and Vlera suggested a farm to table traditional kosovar restaurant. It was tucked away on a long road leading out of the city. The grounds were beautiful and the restaurant interior was rustic. (If only it had been warm enough and we could've sat outside on the cozy patio overlooking the farm!) We had a six course traditional meal, complete with house wine. The food was SO delicious and it was really nice to have Egzon and Vlera, local kosovars, there to explain everything to us. We tried an assortment of meats and cheeses, vegetables, side dishes and were even given a traditional apple cider with our dessert. To say it was filling would be an understatement.






On Sunday we breakfasted at a local bakery and then headed to the scottish pub to enjoy bloody marys and rugby. It was the perfect end to our weekend away (finally!)

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

Oktoberfest Tirana Style

6 October 2019

When your flight to Oktoberfest gets cancelled because your airline goes bankrupt, you bring Oktoberfest to you. Well, sort of. Mark and I still wore our dirndl and lederhosen. We still ate pretzel necklaces. And we still drank liter beers at a "German" beer hall. Prost to our great friends who humored us and partook in the festivities so we didn't feel so alone 🍻